I have some tips and some of the ways I do things for getting your ride ready for summer on the CHEAP. Now I am not talking dollar store cheap. You have to spend a little to get a quality product that last. Which should save you money and time in the long run. For instance a good quality wax should last several months.
So what do you use to clean your auto? My Dad used dish soap; I guess he didn't like the wax to stay on the car! My parents both only washed their cars every 6 months or so. This leads to more time spent trying to scrub off the prehistoric bugs and sap that is now part of the automobiles structure. All the sap and bug removers I have tried will NOT take off bugs that are 6 months old on an un-waxed car. Elbow grease and maybe some WD-40 might work. As gross as this sounds I use my fingernails because the scratches left behind can be repaired with wax.
If you want a ride that not only shines but is easier to clean and withstands minor environmental hazards you need to protect it. Start with a thorough cleaning with a good automotive soap that reduces water spots and residue. I use Turtle or Mcguiars products, they seem to be reasonably priced and you can catch them on sale at most of your local stores. I have used the Gold Class and with all the hard water here and my black cars it still cuts down on the spots very well. It won't strip your wax either which prolongs the life of your paint product; so save time and money.
After the bath you need to dry it. Water and wax leaves an annoying mess to clean up. I have owned an Absorber since 1997 and it still works like a champ. Easy to clean and soaks up way more than that old piece of leather your parents used plus mine is 15 years old. I sometimes take a little drive to get the water out of the nooks and crannies too. Nothing more obnoxious than water streaming down from a side mirror into your wax that is supposed to set up. Now if your ride has a lot of scratches or door paint from that jerk in the parking lot or if it just doesn't look clean, especially white cars, I have used Mcguiars Cleaner Wax. I have used this to get stubborn bugs, sap, mold, and whatever else you can think of off of all my rides. For anything you can't remove with cleaner wax you can try rubbing compound or a clay bar kit. I have used Mcguiars Ultimate Compound and Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. The Mcguiars is more forgiving and less abrasive so you don't have to be as careful. You can really screw up your paint with these products so read the directions carefully and do a little at a time. Matter of fact, ALWAYS try any product for the first time in an inconspicuous, small area.
The Clay Bar will give you a glass smooth finish and take oxidized paint off. Nothing's perfect and if your paint has been neglected too long you might be calling Maco instead. After it's thoroughly dry, ready the muscle and "wax on wax off Daniel San". I have used almost every wax on the market so here goes the list, cause its critical! If you aren't going to remember to wax your car often then I recommend Nu Finish, lasts a good 6 months but its comparatively hard to work with. I have had several Jeeps with black trim, for that I used Turtle Wax Ice. It will not leave white on your trim...which looks like crap. Now on my 2 black cars I use Mcguiars NXT. It really brings out the deep black color and shines like a champ. Don't fall for the "black wax", I don't think it makes a difference.
I also have used plain Turtle wax which is fine but a little hard to get off. I prefer the paste over the liquid but this Tech Wax only comes in liquid and its great. Easy on and off, save some elbow grease! Some diehards only use real carnuba wax. This is due to it is very natural and 40 years ago the finish on a car was very different. So if you have a 63 Ferrari with original paint you might want to get the good stuff. I apply the wax by hand with an applicator sponge and use a powered random orbital buffer to ease removal. I used to do this by hand but good gravy it takes a while if you use a thick wax. Trust me the $30 is worth it for the buffer. I don't recommend a circular polisher unless you have experience. You can literally burn your paint off.
Of course if you clean the paint and the all the trim looks like poop then you will be disappointed just the same. If you are going to do the job go all the way. For all my rubber and plastic I use F21. I use it from my dash to the tires, just make sure you use a different rag! It doesn't add that gangster shine but it brings out the color better, last longer, and doesn't collect dirt like the Afro sheen tire goop.
I haven't owned a vehicle with chrome on it until now. I have seen several polishes used. A polishing ball will definitely help. They usually go on a drill and cut way down on polishing time. I have heard Flitz is a good polish. Just make sure you get the right product for the metal you have and the finish that is on it. Leather can be treated with the F21 but I would recommend a leather conditioner although most "leather" is not real now a days. The carpet in your ride can be treated just like the carpet in your house and the fabric upholstery like your couch. Don't buy off on the auto carpet cleaners, it's all the same. Definitely get a small wet/dry vacuum so you can clean all those nasty spots like the hole full of pine straw and dirt in the front door jamb. If you neglect these spots plan on treating rust in the not so distant future. I also use my shop vac for sucking the water out of nooks before I wax. After all is said and done you have an automobile that will be more enjoyable to drive, have a higher resale, and be easier to clean next time. If you use a product or technique to clean something on your ride please share with us in the comments.
Now that it's clean my next write up is on cruising, so get ready!
