Friday, July 6, 2012
Check it out!!!
Well it's been a while!!! I missed talking out my rear and y'all actually reading it. Hopefully I still have some readers left. I haven't had much time to dedicate to this but I hope you keep looking here for new post.
My wife and I celebrated a late 15th Anniversary 2 weeks ago. We went out to Southern Virginia wineries, ate at a fabulous restaurant in Halifax, and stayed at a great B&B, which so happened to be located 4 miles from VIR. Now this was not intentional but it was a pleasant surprise. VIR is Virginia International Raceway. We are not talking dirt track or even that group that only turns left. This is an awesome euro style road course in the back country of my great state.
In my last blog I talked about cruising. This is an example of a perfect trip. The rolling countryside to the wineries, lovely meal and stay. Then the next morning just a short drive to Porsches screaming past you at 150+. The other great part about the track is we simply walked through the pits like we belonged there, got to see all the cars up close and personal; little to much as we drove in and parked at the pit I had to take some evasive maneuvers around some cars probably worth well over $300k. The atmosphere was very welcoming and you could stand and watch from a balcony, the hardtop, or picnic in the grass. It really have a since of "man I want to race". Knowing that these were not professionals but some just had a lot of loot but we were at the Porsche club race. If an average or below like me wanted to race you could get into this relatively cheap. You might not win but it's still fun. They even have days called drivers education that you can bring anything on the track, you just need a helmet.
Needless to say, I can't believe I didn't know about this track. And ladies there is a spa and lodge there as well as euro karts, skeet range, and golf course. Plus there are plenty of great things to do along the way and it's a great rural drive. So I recommend this type of racing to everyone. You get to see real cars that are very similar to the ones on the street so they are easily identifiable. The cost to get in is cheap, $10 on most days. Can you believe they didn't even pay me to brag this place up, I liked it that much. So who wants to sponsor me and the stang to race? Yeah me neither. I recommend checking out the web site for dates of events and pictures. It's www.VIRnow.com. Remember to have fun along the way too so as to sweeten the deal for the ladies.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Cruising
I know I have been slacking but hopefully I still have some readers out there.
I want to hit up another good weather type of car thing, Cruzing! Whether it's 5 minutes or a few hours you need to get that ride out on the street for some enjoyment instead of just a commute. If your like some guys I know you wax that beast you keep under wraps then you put it back in the garage. Get out there and enjoy it, cars are made for that purpose, to drive!
Well there are several types of things I like to do with my rides. Even if you don't have a "cruising" type of auto you can enjoy the scenery or drive to an event. Get out and see your state. Get off the 12 lane monster and take a back road. I love driving to a small destination such as Virginia Diner out past Suffolk. I recommend the peanut or chess pie, there food is ok but the desserts are where they shine! When you have a destination it splits the drive up and makes it a little more about the whole family versus just the driver. A lot of places have car events. You don't have to own a show car to go check it out and they are usually free to spectators. I don't know one person that doesn't enjoy looking at cars at least for a little while. These events can be found right down the road or a day trip away. Some shows include a "run" which means they all meet and drive to the show. This is more entertaining to me because you get to here and see them run and if the PO PO ain't around you might see a little more out of the cars. It's nice to look at the cool rides but even cooler to see them in action. Sometimes if you are at the end of the show you can watch them all leave. In a more rural setting this can lead to some messing around and a few burnouts and side by sides. It's all in good fun and I have never felt in danger at any of the events I have attended. Another great part about car events is you can learn a lot about cars. If you are thinking about getting a project you can get first hand experience and an up close look at possible considerations. Plus you can get a feel for how much time, effort, and expertise it takes to build a work of art.
Another favorite of mine is the cruise to eat! If you know me you know I can pack away the ice cream. So a nice day and a trip to Sonic or Rita's will make the whole family happy. Maybe you drive to the one down the road or take the long way and make that a final destination. There are several car meetings that are at food places. There is always Jenros cafe at Haygood. That has been going on every Saturday for years. A new place out in Chesapeake called Hot Rodders looks promising, they are attempting to rival Jenros for that cruise in diner feel. The Princess Anne Farmers Market has a weekend car event as well. There are lots of little shops there if the family gets tired of the cars. I have been to many car events and have brought all different types of friends and they have never been disappointed.
As far as cruising goes, just get off the beaten path and roll down some back roads. I know its hard to believe there are any of those left in the great metropolis of Hampton Roads but here are a few spots I like to drive. I grew up in Blackwater and that still has plenty of back road left. You can take Blackwater road or any of the side streets and make it as long or short as you want. There is also the drive to Knotts Island and taking the ferry across; my kids had a blast on that one. The drive to Munden Point Park is great and there is a fun destination. There are so many more all over the place, just look at the map and get off the interstate.
As far as cruising to show off, I don't do that to much anymore but I am sure the Ocean Front is still a place to go, just remember the cruising law (read the signs). Any big event will have tons of people if you are trying to display your pride on wheels. Don't forget Strawberry Fest is coming up and the Chesapeake Jubilee, you will have plenty of time to show off what you have sitting in traffic. As for me I prefer a more low key, relaxing time. So if you need any tips, hot spots, or a cruising buddy let me know and if you have any great spots or events coming up please let us know.
I want to hit up another good weather type of car thing, Cruzing! Whether it's 5 minutes or a few hours you need to get that ride out on the street for some enjoyment instead of just a commute. If your like some guys I know you wax that beast you keep under wraps then you put it back in the garage. Get out there and enjoy it, cars are made for that purpose, to drive!
Well there are several types of things I like to do with my rides. Even if you don't have a "cruising" type of auto you can enjoy the scenery or drive to an event. Get out and see your state. Get off the 12 lane monster and take a back road. I love driving to a small destination such as Virginia Diner out past Suffolk. I recommend the peanut or chess pie, there food is ok but the desserts are where they shine! When you have a destination it splits the drive up and makes it a little more about the whole family versus just the driver. A lot of places have car events. You don't have to own a show car to go check it out and they are usually free to spectators. I don't know one person that doesn't enjoy looking at cars at least for a little while. These events can be found right down the road or a day trip away. Some shows include a "run" which means they all meet and drive to the show. This is more entertaining to me because you get to here and see them run and if the PO PO ain't around you might see a little more out of the cars. It's nice to look at the cool rides but even cooler to see them in action. Sometimes if you are at the end of the show you can watch them all leave. In a more rural setting this can lead to some messing around and a few burnouts and side by sides. It's all in good fun and I have never felt in danger at any of the events I have attended. Another great part about car events is you can learn a lot about cars. If you are thinking about getting a project you can get first hand experience and an up close look at possible considerations. Plus you can get a feel for how much time, effort, and expertise it takes to build a work of art.
Another favorite of mine is the cruise to eat! If you know me you know I can pack away the ice cream. So a nice day and a trip to Sonic or Rita's will make the whole family happy. Maybe you drive to the one down the road or take the long way and make that a final destination. There are several car meetings that are at food places. There is always Jenros cafe at Haygood. That has been going on every Saturday for years. A new place out in Chesapeake called Hot Rodders looks promising, they are attempting to rival Jenros for that cruise in diner feel. The Princess Anne Farmers Market has a weekend car event as well. There are lots of little shops there if the family gets tired of the cars. I have been to many car events and have brought all different types of friends and they have never been disappointed.
As far as cruising goes, just get off the beaten path and roll down some back roads. I know its hard to believe there are any of those left in the great metropolis of Hampton Roads but here are a few spots I like to drive. I grew up in Blackwater and that still has plenty of back road left. You can take Blackwater road or any of the side streets and make it as long or short as you want. There is also the drive to Knotts Island and taking the ferry across; my kids had a blast on that one. The drive to Munden Point Park is great and there is a fun destination. There are so many more all over the place, just look at the map and get off the interstate.
As far as cruising to show off, I don't do that to much anymore but I am sure the Ocean Front is still a place to go, just remember the cruising law (read the signs). Any big event will have tons of people if you are trying to display your pride on wheels. Don't forget Strawberry Fest is coming up and the Chesapeake Jubilee, you will have plenty of time to show off what you have sitting in traffic. As for me I prefer a more low key, relaxing time. So if you need any tips, hot spots, or a cruising buddy let me know and if you have any great spots or events coming up please let us know.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Summer Is Coming!!!
Well it's almost that time again. No matter what you drive your enjoyment will increase if it is clean. If you are an enthusiast, summer means not filling your wash bucket with hot water so you don't freeze washing your ride in January! Either way this is the season that starts those feelings of wanting to get out and drive. Whether it's a road trip, cruising, or the all American Sunday drive, most will spend more time in their cars during nice weather.
I have some tips and some of the ways I do things for getting your ride ready for summer on the CHEAP. Now I am not talking dollar store cheap. You have to spend a little to get a quality product that last. Which should save you money and time in the long run. For instance a good quality wax should last several months.
So what do you use to clean your auto? My Dad used dish soap; I guess he didn't like the wax to stay on the car! My parents both only washed their cars every 6 months or so. This leads to more time spent trying to scrub off the prehistoric bugs and sap that is now part of the automobiles structure. All the sap and bug removers I have tried will NOT take off bugs that are 6 months old on an un-waxed car. Elbow grease and maybe some WD-40 might work. As gross as this sounds I use my fingernails because the scratches left behind can be repaired with wax.
If you want a ride that not only shines but is easier to clean and withstands minor environmental hazards you need to protect it. Start with a thorough cleaning with a good automotive soap that reduces water spots and residue. I use Turtle or Mcguiars products, they seem to be reasonably priced and you can catch them on sale at most of your local stores. I have used the Gold Class and with all the hard water here and my black cars it still cuts down on the spots very well. It won't strip your wax either which prolongs the life of your paint product; so save time and money.
After the bath you need to dry it. Water and wax leaves an annoying mess to clean up. I have owned an Absorber since 1997 and it still works like a champ. Easy to clean and soaks up way more than that old piece of leather your parents used plus mine is 15 years old. I sometimes take a little drive to get the water out of the nooks and crannies too. Nothing more obnoxious than water streaming down from a side mirror into your wax that is supposed to set up.
Now if your ride has a lot of scratches or door paint from that jerk in the parking lot or if it just doesn't look clean, especially white cars, I have used Mcguiars Cleaner Wax. I have used this to get stubborn bugs, sap, mold, and whatever else you can think of off of all my rides. For anything you can't remove with cleaner wax you can try rubbing compound or a clay bar kit. I have used Mcguiars Ultimate Compound and Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. The Mcguiars is more forgiving and less abrasive so you don't have to be as careful. You can really screw up your paint with these products so read the directions carefully and do a little at a time. Matter of fact, ALWAYS try any product for the first time in an inconspicuous, small area.
The Clay Bar will give you a glass smooth finish and take oxidized paint off. Nothing's perfect and if your paint has been neglected too long you might be calling Maco instead.
After it's thoroughly dry, ready the muscle and "wax on wax off Daniel San". I have used almost every wax on the market so here goes the list, cause its critical! If you aren't going to remember to wax your car often then I recommend Nu Finish, lasts a good 6 months but its comparatively hard to work with. I have had several Jeeps with black trim, for that I used Turtle Wax Ice. It will not leave white on your trim...which looks like crap. Now on my 2 black cars I use Mcguiars NXT. It really brings out the deep black color and shines like a champ. Don't fall for the "black wax", I don't think it makes a difference.
I also have used plain Turtle wax which is fine but a little hard to get off. I prefer the paste over the liquid but this Tech Wax only comes in liquid and its great. Easy on and off, save some elbow grease! Some diehards only use real carnuba wax. This is due to it is very natural and 40 years ago the finish on a car was very different. So if you have a 63 Ferrari with original paint you might want to get the good stuff. I apply the wax by hand with an applicator sponge and use a powered random orbital buffer to ease removal. I used to do this by hand but good gravy it takes a while if you use a thick wax. Trust me the $30 is worth it for the buffer. I don't recommend a circular polisher unless you have experience. You can literally burn your paint off.
I haven't owned a vehicle with chrome on it until now. I have seen several polishes used. A polishing ball will definitely help. They usually go on a drill and cut way down on polishing time. I have heard Flitz is a good polish. Just make sure you get the right product for the metal you have and the finish that is on it. Leather can be treated with the F21 but I would recommend a leather conditioner although most "leather" is not real now a days. The carpet in your ride can be treated just like the carpet in your house and the fabric upholstery like your couch. Don't buy off on the auto carpet cleaners, it's all the same. Definitely get a small wet/dry vacuum so you can clean all those nasty spots like the hole full of pine straw and dirt in the front door jamb. If you neglect these spots plan on treating rust in the not so distant future. I also use my shop vac for sucking the water out of nooks before I wax. After all is said and done you have an automobile that will be more enjoyable to drive, have a higher resale, and be easier to clean next time. If you use a product or technique to clean something on your ride please share with us in the comments.
I have some tips and some of the ways I do things for getting your ride ready for summer on the CHEAP. Now I am not talking dollar store cheap. You have to spend a little to get a quality product that last. Which should save you money and time in the long run. For instance a good quality wax should last several months.
So what do you use to clean your auto? My Dad used dish soap; I guess he didn't like the wax to stay on the car! My parents both only washed their cars every 6 months or so. This leads to more time spent trying to scrub off the prehistoric bugs and sap that is now part of the automobiles structure. All the sap and bug removers I have tried will NOT take off bugs that are 6 months old on an un-waxed car. Elbow grease and maybe some WD-40 might work. As gross as this sounds I use my fingernails because the scratches left behind can be repaired with wax.
If you want a ride that not only shines but is easier to clean and withstands minor environmental hazards you need to protect it. Start with a thorough cleaning with a good automotive soap that reduces water spots and residue. I use Turtle or Mcguiars products, they seem to be reasonably priced and you can catch them on sale at most of your local stores. I have used the Gold Class and with all the hard water here and my black cars it still cuts down on the spots very well. It won't strip your wax either which prolongs the life of your paint product; so save time and money.
After the bath you need to dry it. Water and wax leaves an annoying mess to clean up. I have owned an Absorber since 1997 and it still works like a champ. Easy to clean and soaks up way more than that old piece of leather your parents used plus mine is 15 years old. I sometimes take a little drive to get the water out of the nooks and crannies too. Nothing more obnoxious than water streaming down from a side mirror into your wax that is supposed to set up. Now if your ride has a lot of scratches or door paint from that jerk in the parking lot or if it just doesn't look clean, especially white cars, I have used Mcguiars Cleaner Wax. I have used this to get stubborn bugs, sap, mold, and whatever else you can think of off of all my rides. For anything you can't remove with cleaner wax you can try rubbing compound or a clay bar kit. I have used Mcguiars Ultimate Compound and Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. The Mcguiars is more forgiving and less abrasive so you don't have to be as careful. You can really screw up your paint with these products so read the directions carefully and do a little at a time. Matter of fact, ALWAYS try any product for the first time in an inconspicuous, small area.
The Clay Bar will give you a glass smooth finish and take oxidized paint off. Nothing's perfect and if your paint has been neglected too long you might be calling Maco instead. After it's thoroughly dry, ready the muscle and "wax on wax off Daniel San". I have used almost every wax on the market so here goes the list, cause its critical! If you aren't going to remember to wax your car often then I recommend Nu Finish, lasts a good 6 months but its comparatively hard to work with. I have had several Jeeps with black trim, for that I used Turtle Wax Ice. It will not leave white on your trim...which looks like crap. Now on my 2 black cars I use Mcguiars NXT. It really brings out the deep black color and shines like a champ. Don't fall for the "black wax", I don't think it makes a difference.
I also have used plain Turtle wax which is fine but a little hard to get off. I prefer the paste over the liquid but this Tech Wax only comes in liquid and its great. Easy on and off, save some elbow grease! Some diehards only use real carnuba wax. This is due to it is very natural and 40 years ago the finish on a car was very different. So if you have a 63 Ferrari with original paint you might want to get the good stuff. I apply the wax by hand with an applicator sponge and use a powered random orbital buffer to ease removal. I used to do this by hand but good gravy it takes a while if you use a thick wax. Trust me the $30 is worth it for the buffer. I don't recommend a circular polisher unless you have experience. You can literally burn your paint off.
Of course if you clean the paint and the all the trim looks like poop then you will be disappointed just the same. If you are going to do the job go all the way. For all my rubber and plastic I use F21. I use it from my dash to the tires, just make sure you use a different rag! It doesn't add that gangster shine but it brings out the color better, last longer, and doesn't collect dirt like the Afro sheen tire goop.
I haven't owned a vehicle with chrome on it until now. I have seen several polishes used. A polishing ball will definitely help. They usually go on a drill and cut way down on polishing time. I have heard Flitz is a good polish. Just make sure you get the right product for the metal you have and the finish that is on it. Leather can be treated with the F21 but I would recommend a leather conditioner although most "leather" is not real now a days. The carpet in your ride can be treated just like the carpet in your house and the fabric upholstery like your couch. Don't buy off on the auto carpet cleaners, it's all the same. Definitely get a small wet/dry vacuum so you can clean all those nasty spots like the hole full of pine straw and dirt in the front door jamb. If you neglect these spots plan on treating rust in the not so distant future. I also use my shop vac for sucking the water out of nooks before I wax. After all is said and done you have an automobile that will be more enjoyable to drive, have a higher resale, and be easier to clean next time. If you use a product or technique to clean something on your ride please share with us in the comments.
Now that it's clean my next write up is on cruising, so get ready!
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Whats up...
It's been a while since my last post, so sorry to my loyal fan base for leaving y'all hanging. I am still processing the few comments about what to do with the Bronco I just bought. Most said to fix the mechanical things first but check this out, I will get the bodywork done with the money I have saved. Then I will fix things it needs with the un-budgeted funds because my wife won't let it just sit broke; genius!
Well enough about that. What is up with the price of cars these days? I am not that old and the cost has increased dramatically in the past 20 or so years. I know that the price of everything is up but cars seem to have surpassed the cost to income ratio by leaps and bounds. For instance a 91 Mustang 5.0 cost about $15k new but I just bought one for $2600. A new Mustang 5.0 (yes they brought it back) base price is $30k. So in 21 years it doubled in price. Some other things have gone way up as well, such as gas...that kind of goes hand and hand, especially when we're talking cars with V8's in them. A dollar and fifteen cents for a gallon of regular gas in 1991. It's about $3.85 or more now. That's worse than the cars but we will stay on subject.
So if the price of a car doubles in 20 years but then decreases about $2000 as soon as you buy it and $600 per year all you can hope for is it keeps running till you pay it off. Then if you keep it in really good shape for at least 25 years hopefully the value will start to go back up if you bought a desirable ride.
Another issue is the crushing of cars. If you don't have a "restore worthy" ride the manufacture of new parts for your aged auto will soon fade away. I have a 1999 Mercury and needed a tail light, needless to say they do NOT manufacture this part any longer so I had to get it from the salvage yard. So, you could imagine a car from the 80's that you wanted to keep running, instead of putting yourself in debt, would be even harder to find parts for. Oh and thanks for the "cash for clunkers" Obama! All those great cars crushed and more people in debt for a car with a little better mileage. So now I can't get as many parts from salvage for my Bronco or Mustang but they are desirable so there is an aftermarket for them. There will not be an aftermarket for 1999 Mercury Villagers, trust me. My point is the market and Government has driven people to buy new cars and the difficulty of repair has made a lot of people scared to keep these new cars past warranty. So if you are a manufacture with a long warranty your smart. The average age of cars on the road is 10 years which is a record high because the economy has tanked. You companies that took bail outs can kiss my butt, lower your prices because a clunker trade in can't save the world from exuberant prices.
My advice is never buy new! I would like to see these big companies lower or sustain their prices for at least a decade. The government puts all these gas mileage restrictions which sound great for the environment but the bottom line is they mandate and we pay for it in research, technology, and retooling. We don't need a new model every year and we are not going to make up the difference in gas savings while paying a $500 car note. All the while your new ride is wearing out and depreciating. I'll stick with what I have! The government puts regulations on fuel prices so why not step in on all the other expenses we have?
Well enough about that. What is up with the price of cars these days? I am not that old and the cost has increased dramatically in the past 20 or so years. I know that the price of everything is up but cars seem to have surpassed the cost to income ratio by leaps and bounds. For instance a 91 Mustang 5.0 cost about $15k new but I just bought one for $2600. A new Mustang 5.0 (yes they brought it back) base price is $30k. So in 21 years it doubled in price. Some other things have gone way up as well, such as gas...that kind of goes hand and hand, especially when we're talking cars with V8's in them. A dollar and fifteen cents for a gallon of regular gas in 1991. It's about $3.85 or more now. That's worse than the cars but we will stay on subject.
So if the price of a car doubles in 20 years but then decreases about $2000 as soon as you buy it and $600 per year all you can hope for is it keeps running till you pay it off. Then if you keep it in really good shape for at least 25 years hopefully the value will start to go back up if you bought a desirable ride.
Another issue is the crushing of cars. If you don't have a "restore worthy" ride the manufacture of new parts for your aged auto will soon fade away. I have a 1999 Mercury and needed a tail light, needless to say they do NOT manufacture this part any longer so I had to get it from the salvage yard. So, you could imagine a car from the 80's that you wanted to keep running, instead of putting yourself in debt, would be even harder to find parts for. Oh and thanks for the "cash for clunkers" Obama! All those great cars crushed and more people in debt for a car with a little better mileage. So now I can't get as many parts from salvage for my Bronco or Mustang but they are desirable so there is an aftermarket for them. There will not be an aftermarket for 1999 Mercury Villagers, trust me. My point is the market and Government has driven people to buy new cars and the difficulty of repair has made a lot of people scared to keep these new cars past warranty. So if you are a manufacture with a long warranty your smart. The average age of cars on the road is 10 years which is a record high because the economy has tanked. You companies that took bail outs can kiss my butt, lower your prices because a clunker trade in can't save the world from exuberant prices.
My advice is never buy new! I would like to see these big companies lower or sustain their prices for at least a decade. The government puts all these gas mileage restrictions which sound great for the environment but the bottom line is they mandate and we pay for it in research, technology, and retooling. We don't need a new model every year and we are not going to make up the difference in gas savings while paying a $500 car note. All the while your new ride is wearing out and depreciating. I'll stick with what I have! The government puts regulations on fuel prices so why not step in on all the other expenses we have?
Saturday, March 10, 2012
What's Next?
I just brought home my new to me 93 Bronco. It needs a little work but is definitely drivable. So I am tossing around a couple of ideas of where to start fixing this beast up. My wife says I should take it to the body shop first and get it looking sharp. I don't want to be that truck on the side of the road that people drive by and say, "that looks so nice I wonder why its broke down?" This was the original plan, my better half said I should at least have one ride that looks decent. All in all it needs at least a grand in cosmetic work, including a few missing body parts from www.lmctruck.com, and that's a cheap estimate if you have ever priced body work.
So that will eat up all of the funds I presently have. There is also the maintenance list; not as fun but necessary. So a tune up (cap,rotor,wires, and plugs), brakes (rotors and pads), fluid changes, and repack or replace bearings. All this comes to about $500 in parts and that is using Summit Racing parts. www.summitracing.com really offers inexpensive solutions to after market performance. Kind of like buying generic at the grocery, just as good but a 1/3 of the price. So already have stuff picked out I just have to pull the trigger and then find time to install it all.
I definitely want to replace everything with factory looking parts that offer a higher degree of performance. This is what I did with the Mustang. I used several Ford Racing parts, mostly purchased from Summit. These look factory, they are not some bright gaudy color that doesn't match the rest under the hood. They do offer a significant performance increase. For instance my Ford Motor Sports water pump is natural aluminum but flows 40% more than stock.
Of course I want to modify it some. I don't want to go to crazy with lift and tires. Probably just stick with 33's on factory wheels. I could use some new motor parts that increase mileage and horse power. So the big question is where to start? I would love y'alls opinions...well I think I do.
What would you do to the Bronco first? What type and size tires? What improvements, mods, or general maintenance would you start off with?
So far I love driving this SUV, it handles like a truck but it's a nice ride. Plenty of room and it's a V8 with a manual shift 4 wheel drive. Everything you NEED and no gadgets that get in the way.
So let me know, if you had a $1000 to spend on your ride what would it be?
So that will eat up all of the funds I presently have. There is also the maintenance list; not as fun but necessary. So a tune up (cap,rotor,wires, and plugs), brakes (rotors and pads), fluid changes, and repack or replace bearings. All this comes to about $500 in parts and that is using Summit Racing parts. www.summitracing.com really offers inexpensive solutions to after market performance. Kind of like buying generic at the grocery, just as good but a 1/3 of the price. So already have stuff picked out I just have to pull the trigger and then find time to install it all.
I definitely want to replace everything with factory looking parts that offer a higher degree of performance. This is what I did with the Mustang. I used several Ford Racing parts, mostly purchased from Summit. These look factory, they are not some bright gaudy color that doesn't match the rest under the hood. They do offer a significant performance increase. For instance my Ford Motor Sports water pump is natural aluminum but flows 40% more than stock.
Of course I want to modify it some. I don't want to go to crazy with lift and tires. Probably just stick with 33's on factory wheels. I could use some new motor parts that increase mileage and horse power. So the big question is where to start? I would love y'alls opinions...well I think I do.
What would you do to the Bronco first? What type and size tires? What improvements, mods, or general maintenance would you start off with?
So far I love driving this SUV, it handles like a truck but it's a nice ride. Plenty of room and it's a V8 with a manual shift 4 wheel drive. Everything you NEED and no gadgets that get in the way.
So let me know, if you had a $1000 to spend on your ride what would it be?
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Read the fine print...
Just got my new title and registration for the 93 Bronco I bought from my cousin. Yes, I finally found a 4x4 I can live with...well I hope so. My cousin, who owns his own shop out in Pungo, was gracious enough to sell it to me even though he wanted to drive it for a while. He is the type that gets autos and fixes them up while he drives them then sells it for profit. He rebuilt the tranny and went through the rest of the truck to make sure it would be some what reliable. The Bronco spent it's life mostly in Texas and California so the only rust on the truck are two small spots on the tailgate, which is typical for Broncos. This was the main draw to the vehicle and a fresh transmission all for $2500. That's a lot better than the rust buckets I have been shuffling through for the past 6 months!
Now for the interesting part of the transaction. Most people that have bought used cars have had a similar situation as this. I pay my cousin and he hands me a title...from Texas. This is pretty common with people that buy and sell a decent amount of vehicles. Why spend the time to title it when you are going to turn it over. So he got it from a guy on a trade that bought it from the title holder and none of them titled it. I am now 3 people removed from the name on the title. Technically this is illegal but that is because VA wants their money. You don't need to track a car that isn't on the road. There is a down side to the removed ownership purchase. That is if there is a discrepancy with the title. Wouldn't you know it there was, it was signed in the wrong spot.
The limited transaction DMV at the court house was my first stop. No line! This was a good start but short lived. The woman at the counter said "oh, he signed in the wrong spot. I can't help you, try the full service DMV." After I got off work I went to the full service and waited about 45 minutes just so the lady at the counter could tell me, "you have to get the seller to make an affidavit saying he signed in the wrong spot." Of course I ask, what if I cant get a hold of him? It has been a year since he sold the vehicle to the first buyer. So what your telling me is I have a vehicle I cannot register if I can't get this guy to send the affidavit? The response was less than helpful. Needless to say I went home pretty upset.
So I prayed after my awesome wife saved me from a breakdown and found the guys number on the Internet. He was still in the area, this was rare considering he is an officer in the Navy. God willing he was more than helpful and faxed me the paper work I needed. Third trip to DMV was a success and now it is officially my new ride. My wife can rest a little easier now that I am not out looking for the unicorn.
Now for the interesting part of the transaction. Most people that have bought used cars have had a similar situation as this. I pay my cousin and he hands me a title...from Texas. This is pretty common with people that buy and sell a decent amount of vehicles. Why spend the time to title it when you are going to turn it over. So he got it from a guy on a trade that bought it from the title holder and none of them titled it. I am now 3 people removed from the name on the title. Technically this is illegal but that is because VA wants their money. You don't need to track a car that isn't on the road. There is a down side to the removed ownership purchase. That is if there is a discrepancy with the title. Wouldn't you know it there was, it was signed in the wrong spot.
The limited transaction DMV at the court house was my first stop. No line! This was a good start but short lived. The woman at the counter said "oh, he signed in the wrong spot. I can't help you, try the full service DMV." After I got off work I went to the full service and waited about 45 minutes just so the lady at the counter could tell me, "you have to get the seller to make an affidavit saying he signed in the wrong spot." Of course I ask, what if I cant get a hold of him? It has been a year since he sold the vehicle to the first buyer. So what your telling me is I have a vehicle I cannot register if I can't get this guy to send the affidavit? The response was less than helpful. Needless to say I went home pretty upset.
So I prayed after my awesome wife saved me from a breakdown and found the guys number on the Internet. He was still in the area, this was rare considering he is an officer in the Navy. God willing he was more than helpful and faxed me the paper work I needed. Third trip to DMV was a success and now it is officially my new ride. My wife can rest a little easier now that I am not out looking for the unicorn.
Monday, February 20, 2012
Jesus take the wheel...please!
A couple of years ago I noticed an ad for a Volvo that depicted a couple wanting to get somewhere before it closed. The jerk driving the car is not paying attention and just weaving through traffic, a lot like VB. Anyways long story short, his car tells him when he is about to rear end someone because he is driving too fast and not paying attention. He avoids the accident and they get their hotdogs in time. That is worth risking the lives of people who didn't get to choose whether you got a drivers license or not!
Well this seems to be a trend now and even Ford has sensors all over their cars to remind you that you are driving a few ton piece of metal down a road full of people at probably around 60 MPH! Oh, don't forget the cars that brake for you so as not to interrupt your text or shuffling through your playlist to find that sweet new driving song. Someone I work with told me when she is in her $60k Benz the wake up assistance always goes off when she is texting. This is due to the detection of swerving!
This is no new thing. There has been talk of cars that drive themselves for decades. Ever since autopilot the industry has been figuring out ways to remove the driver from the equation. Human error leads in car accidents, even if it was a mechanical failure it was probably due to poor maintenance practices. The busier our lives get the more we try and make up time in transit. But you wouldn't want the bus driver to be texting his girlfriend and eating a donut while you were on board. What makes this same person feel they have adequate training to drive and do these things without causing a wreck. Notice I did not call it an accident beacause it is NOT! Accidents just happen and could not have been avoided.
I feel that driving is a privilege and an experience but adding electronics to counter act the electronics we use to distract us is never good. There have been several advances in vehicle safety where electronicly controlled is the way to go such as ABS (anti-lock brakes), traction control, anti roll midigation, etc. Even a novice driver has a better chance at avoiding or at least reducing damage of a crash with these items in place. This beats the good old days of locking the brakes up and sliding 500 feet and hoping you could maneuver well enough to go around whatever you were about to hit without rolling over. I have driven both new and old. For driving experience I enjoy the old, for transporting my loved ones or commuting to work with all the distracted drivers I prefer as much safety as I can get.
I know we all make mistakes, I have made more than a few. I really try and pay attention to driving and driving alone. Driving is the most dangerous thing we do unless you swim with sharks in fish underwear. So why do so many take it lightly, at least til it's too late? I witness the same people speed past my daughter and I every morning at the bus stop. My little girl told me of how a driver tried to go around the bus stop sign and her friends mom yelled at the driver. Too bad there isn't a braking system to stop cars when that stop sign comes out. I know you say "how could they not see it or just disobey it" but what is the difference between that stop or the one that we all roll through every day? We think its clear from our precise judgment? Fact is, the quick look doesn't always see. People respond to consequences just like children. If you drive to work running lights, speeding, etc. You will most likely do it until you get a good ticket or are in a crash. I am guilty of some of these violations as well. I say we need to get up a little earlier and drop some extracurricular stuff so we don't have to rush so much.
As far as the car electronics go I say more power to them! People are going to not pay attention and drive like jerks anyway so maybe these nuances will give me a fighting chance. If they aren't going to see my daughter crossing the road maybe their sensor will and stop the vehicle in time. Although this is still dependent on the electronic sensor telling the computer which tells the brake controller which applies the brakes which slow the rotation of the tires which contact the ground.
Lets just hope the maintenance was preformed on this vehicle!
Good luck out there, a lot of airbags wouldn't be a bad idea either!
Saturday, February 18, 2012
Calc you later!
Y'all know by now that I have been looking for a new 4X4 and you know it is taking me forever (it's been about 6 months). I went to look at an 82 Bronco yesterday in Hampton. The owner was cordial enough to meet me half way from Gloucester. Well, needless to say I am still looking. The price started at $3500. I talked him down on the phone to $3k. From our conversation, text, and pictures it looked like a prospect. It appeared to only have about 3 rust spots and ran like a champ. He said it was low mileage according to the title. Lets talk about that real quick. The odometers on a lot of old vehicles only display 5 digits, after 99,999 miles it rolls back to 00000. The title is supposed to say the actual mileage but vehicles become exempt from this LAW at a certain age. So old boy didn't have to know or divulge the actual mileage. With low mileage, little rust, it was only lifted 4" with a mild tire, and everything else looked stock (how it came from the manufacture). This vehicle is what a lot of guys call uncut, because for some reason people that typically buy these rides chop the fenders and whatever else to throw big tires on it. This usually leads to a life of abuse. I would give you this little snippet of advice, if the add for a vehicle says BAD ASS, I would stray away from that.
This is an example of what the typical prospect looks like. I would like to say this person did divulge what was wrong with it probably due to the fact that he just bought it, got took, and didn't feel right making someone else feel as bad as he did! This was I am sure, a great looking, fair priced Jeep. I am sure the conversation was "I have too many projects or I need a truck or I need something better on gas" and "this is my baby and I hate to sell her." Even though the guy has only owned it a few months. These are the most typical excuses. I guess no one wants to say I can't afford to fix all that is wrong with it!
This is the FRAME of said Jeep! This is completely UNDRIVABLE!
Could you imagine if this broke? I guess you could put it in 4 wheel drive to pull the front half down the road!
This is an extreme example of how you can get stuck with a POS that is basically NOT worth fixing for the amount it would cost in repairs. The signs are not usually this obvious. I know I wrote about what to look for in another blog but it is something weighing on me. I hate it when people are dishonest or when someone who doesn't know any better gets the shaft of a basket case vehicle.
When I went to look at that Bronco yesterday here are the things I noticed that the owner may not have been aware of, he seemed sincerely naive. There of course was more rust than he disclosed but I do use a super bright light and know where these vehicles are prone to rot. The rust started on the inside and had not made it out like the spots he told me about. The squeak he said was the interior was actually the rear end squealing. The "LOW mileage" motor knocked like the police in P-town, and the transfer case (the thing that makes it 4 wheel drive) made a clunking noise. The interior was crap too. So all in all it needed everything! After identifying all of that to him he lowered the price to $2k, remember he started at $3500! My calculator was working the whole time I was looking at the Bronco. I am familiar with how much certain parts and repairs cost BEFORE I go look, $1500 in body work, $3500 for drive train, $1500 for interior, etc. This was not worth the trouble but if I didn't take a thorough look at it I could have been stuck with a money pit. Don't let your yearning for this dream machine impair your judgment. There will be another one, just be patient.
I have a 91 Mustang that I bought a few years ago. I feel I made a good purchase. It did not need any major mechanical work, no rust, and I drove it home. I know parts are cheap for this model and fairly easy to replace. I knew that a certain level of investment into the Mustang would yield a profit if I decided to sell it later. I also have a fun car to drive!
Yeah, its about a 20 footer but it gets me where I need to go, it's fun, and I only have about $3k invested.
If your local and you need help discerning which ride to put in your drive way, let me know. I love weeding out the scammers! Let them be stuck with it...NOT YOU!!!
Could you imagine if this broke? I guess you could put it in 4 wheel drive to pull the front half down the road!
This is an extreme example of how you can get stuck with a POS that is basically NOT worth fixing for the amount it would cost in repairs. The signs are not usually this obvious. I know I wrote about what to look for in another blog but it is something weighing on me. I hate it when people are dishonest or when someone who doesn't know any better gets the shaft of a basket case vehicle.
When I went to look at that Bronco yesterday here are the things I noticed that the owner may not have been aware of, he seemed sincerely naive. There of course was more rust than he disclosed but I do use a super bright light and know where these vehicles are prone to rot. The rust started on the inside and had not made it out like the spots he told me about. The squeak he said was the interior was actually the rear end squealing. The "LOW mileage" motor knocked like the police in P-town, and the transfer case (the thing that makes it 4 wheel drive) made a clunking noise. The interior was crap too. So all in all it needed everything! After identifying all of that to him he lowered the price to $2k, remember he started at $3500! My calculator was working the whole time I was looking at the Bronco. I am familiar with how much certain parts and repairs cost BEFORE I go look, $1500 in body work, $3500 for drive train, $1500 for interior, etc. This was not worth the trouble but if I didn't take a thorough look at it I could have been stuck with a money pit. Don't let your yearning for this dream machine impair your judgment. There will be another one, just be patient.
I have a 91 Mustang that I bought a few years ago. I feel I made a good purchase. It did not need any major mechanical work, no rust, and I drove it home. I know parts are cheap for this model and fairly easy to replace. I knew that a certain level of investment into the Mustang would yield a profit if I decided to sell it later. I also have a fun car to drive!
If your local and you need help discerning which ride to put in your drive way, let me know. I love weeding out the scammers! Let them be stuck with it...NOT YOU!!!
Sunday, February 12, 2012
What should it be?
I know I have broached this subject before but it is still weighing heavy on all aspects of my being. My wife and kids are sick of daddy taking time to research and look for an SUV to buy. Also the financial situation, reliability issues, gas mileage, practicality, etc. You would think given the opportunity to buy what I want would be a blessing and it has been, but it is still stressful. When buying a used auto there are so many areas to consider and then no matter how informed you think your decision is you never know the true history or condition of the vehicle until you buy it.
First I am still trying to figure out what will be most suited for my purposes. I need something large enough to fit the family and some gear. I have owned a Jeep Wrangler and as much as it is bad ass off road it is small. That is one reason it is so capable on the trail but most of our time is not spent on a trail. So don't short yourself for that once in awhile use. There are plenty of vehicles with similar capabilities and more cargo space. Not to mention Wranglers have the highest resale value which means you pay a premium for a POS, trust me I have gone and looked at them.
If you are buying used and plan to fix it up you need to get a vehicle with cheap aftermarket parts, especially if you want to modify your ride. Not all cars have a big aftermarket selection which drives the price up do to supply and demand also making it more difficult to find certain components. Those are for the true gear head who likes a challenge and waiting for one to pop up in the salvage yard to get what you need. Domestic cars usually have cheaper parts as well. Try finding a suspension lift for a Mitsubishi Montero, trust me I had one.
So if you can find the parts and afford them, how easy is it to install them. Some vehicles require heavy fabrication to install simple things. I don't own a welder nor do I know how to use one. This skill set is expensive to hire so look for a bolt on market where you don't have to get the plasma cutter out to change the air filter!
What sort of mileage will be sufficient for your wallet. I live close to work and have another car so I can get a big gas guzzler and not suffer to much. The short drive also makes me be able to modify them a little more and sacrifice some ride quality. You do not want a 30 minute commute on a set of Bogger tires, "what did you say? I am deaf but my tires look tuff!"
How old of a car should you get? I have been tossing this around for a while. I used to think the newer the better but after looking for 7 months, as my wife reminded me today, I beg to differ. I have inspected and driven rides that are over 20 and under 4 years old. The main difference is rust. If it is out of warranty it is out of warranty. You will definitely pay more for newer car parts because they usually involve some form of computer control or electric sensor. Also dumping a bunch of money into something there are a lot of on the road or an undesirable is only worth it if you plan to drive it for a long time. You will NOT get your money out of a newer vehicles mods or repairs unless you got a killer deal and did all the work yourself. The closer you get to 100K miles the more you can expect to need repairs. I have seen several cars with only 40K need major component replacements costing from $600 to $2000 and they were totally separate types and brands of cars. Less electrical components are a plus when it comes to reliability. If you are looking at a 10 year old car you will probably be replacing several switches in the near future. I don't know how many of y'all have replaced a power window switch before but I can assure you it is not worth the convenience. I will crank my windows up for the rest of eternity.
I would say the only modern conveniences worth trying to get may be fuel injection and some safety features. Like I said the shelf life on electronics is much shorter than mechanical action. So I have settled on fixing up an old mechanical ride with less electronics than most people have in their pockets. New carburetor, $300; new fuel injection around $1000. Yes some times they run a little smoother or the electronics are nice to play with but don't whine about it when you are charged $600 to replace a throttle body because they charge labor to reprogram the computer and take hours to dig through the engine to get to the part. You can sit under the hood of mos old cars and you can see the components to trouble shoot them. It takes me forever just to find a part on my wife's car considering the motor is shoe horned in there.
I urge you to go to a car show open to all years and compare what I am saying. Look at a 60's model, an engine with wheels. Then look at a 90's, fuel injected but still able to repair cheaply and easily, you can still see all of the motor. Then there are the 00's era cars, great performance but open the hood and what do you see? A big piece of plastic, remove that and the motor is crammed in there like me trying to fit into my jeans from 10 years ago, you ever seen a button as a projectile? There are pros and cons to all rides but you need to way them against your budget and ability. Don't think that a car with only 50K miles on it won't break down the minute you drive away.
Last point in my car buying sermon is discernment. This is hard because people are trying to get as much for their car as possible. Why would they disclose everything to you and drive there price down? There are a lot of honest sellers out there but some of them don't know what is wrong with their ride or what that weird noise is. So when you first start dealing with someone I recommend talking instead of text. You can tell a lot by someones demeanor, this is hard to detect in text. Ask them why they are selling and how long they have owned it. I ask these questions a couple of times. I have noticed that between talking on the phone, text, and at the test drive these stories may change. This is a good indicator that you should walk away. Also be prepared for the up sale. Don't take their word for it, check everything! I have been on a test drive when advertised was a new clutch, as I drove with the owner in the passenger seat I asked "does it always grind going into 2nd?" If they say it has a new anything, it doesn't unless there is a receipt! Be familiar with how much some repairs cost so you can estimate on the spot how much you will need to get the vehicle how you want it. This is also a great negotiating tool, "I know your asking $5000 but it needs a new clutch so that will cost me $400 and the tires are worn, I'll give you $3800."
Build up your shopping tool box and you should be more equipped than most sellers. Don't be afraid, most people are not intentional in ripping you off. If someone knows their vehicle they will most likely disclose anything major. It is up to you to find any discrepancies, whether there are 40k or 190k miles on it. If it is sold as is/no warranty you are at the mercy of your discernment. Please if you don't know what your are looking for ask someone to go with you or drive it to a mechanic you trust and pay a few bucks. It's worth it in the long run. Please don't buy from those shady little car dealers, you know the ones that have all the sporty cars and trucks and finance military "no money down." You will more than likely get a better deal and product buying from a private party seller.
So get out there and make the best of it and leave the impulses at home! Don't take as long as me though, it will just aggravate this joyful occasion of finding that perfect new ride!
First I am still trying to figure out what will be most suited for my purposes. I need something large enough to fit the family and some gear. I have owned a Jeep Wrangler and as much as it is bad ass off road it is small. That is one reason it is so capable on the trail but most of our time is not spent on a trail. So don't short yourself for that once in awhile use. There are plenty of vehicles with similar capabilities and more cargo space. Not to mention Wranglers have the highest resale value which means you pay a premium for a POS, trust me I have gone and looked at them.
If you are buying used and plan to fix it up you need to get a vehicle with cheap aftermarket parts, especially if you want to modify your ride. Not all cars have a big aftermarket selection which drives the price up do to supply and demand also making it more difficult to find certain components. Those are for the true gear head who likes a challenge and waiting for one to pop up in the salvage yard to get what you need. Domestic cars usually have cheaper parts as well. Try finding a suspension lift for a Mitsubishi Montero, trust me I had one.
So if you can find the parts and afford them, how easy is it to install them. Some vehicles require heavy fabrication to install simple things. I don't own a welder nor do I know how to use one. This skill set is expensive to hire so look for a bolt on market where you don't have to get the plasma cutter out to change the air filter!
What sort of mileage will be sufficient for your wallet. I live close to work and have another car so I can get a big gas guzzler and not suffer to much. The short drive also makes me be able to modify them a little more and sacrifice some ride quality. You do not want a 30 minute commute on a set of Bogger tires, "what did you say? I am deaf but my tires look tuff!"
How old of a car should you get? I have been tossing this around for a while. I used to think the newer the better but after looking for 7 months, as my wife reminded me today, I beg to differ. I have inspected and driven rides that are over 20 and under 4 years old. The main difference is rust. If it is out of warranty it is out of warranty. You will definitely pay more for newer car parts because they usually involve some form of computer control or electric sensor. Also dumping a bunch of money into something there are a lot of on the road or an undesirable is only worth it if you plan to drive it for a long time. You will NOT get your money out of a newer vehicles mods or repairs unless you got a killer deal and did all the work yourself. The closer you get to 100K miles the more you can expect to need repairs. I have seen several cars with only 40K need major component replacements costing from $600 to $2000 and they were totally separate types and brands of cars. Less electrical components are a plus when it comes to reliability. If you are looking at a 10 year old car you will probably be replacing several switches in the near future. I don't know how many of y'all have replaced a power window switch before but I can assure you it is not worth the convenience. I will crank my windows up for the rest of eternity.
I would say the only modern conveniences worth trying to get may be fuel injection and some safety features. Like I said the shelf life on electronics is much shorter than mechanical action. So I have settled on fixing up an old mechanical ride with less electronics than most people have in their pockets. New carburetor, $300; new fuel injection around $1000. Yes some times they run a little smoother or the electronics are nice to play with but don't whine about it when you are charged $600 to replace a throttle body because they charge labor to reprogram the computer and take hours to dig through the engine to get to the part. You can sit under the hood of mos old cars and you can see the components to trouble shoot them. It takes me forever just to find a part on my wife's car considering the motor is shoe horned in there.
I urge you to go to a car show open to all years and compare what I am saying. Look at a 60's model, an engine with wheels. Then look at a 90's, fuel injected but still able to repair cheaply and easily, you can still see all of the motor. Then there are the 00's era cars, great performance but open the hood and what do you see? A big piece of plastic, remove that and the motor is crammed in there like me trying to fit into my jeans from 10 years ago, you ever seen a button as a projectile? There are pros and cons to all rides but you need to way them against your budget and ability. Don't think that a car with only 50K miles on it won't break down the minute you drive away.
Last point in my car buying sermon is discernment. This is hard because people are trying to get as much for their car as possible. Why would they disclose everything to you and drive there price down? There are a lot of honest sellers out there but some of them don't know what is wrong with their ride or what that weird noise is. So when you first start dealing with someone I recommend talking instead of text. You can tell a lot by someones demeanor, this is hard to detect in text. Ask them why they are selling and how long they have owned it. I ask these questions a couple of times. I have noticed that between talking on the phone, text, and at the test drive these stories may change. This is a good indicator that you should walk away. Also be prepared for the up sale. Don't take their word for it, check everything! I have been on a test drive when advertised was a new clutch, as I drove with the owner in the passenger seat I asked "does it always grind going into 2nd?" If they say it has a new anything, it doesn't unless there is a receipt! Be familiar with how much some repairs cost so you can estimate on the spot how much you will need to get the vehicle how you want it. This is also a great negotiating tool, "I know your asking $5000 but it needs a new clutch so that will cost me $400 and the tires are worn, I'll give you $3800."
Build up your shopping tool box and you should be more equipped than most sellers. Don't be afraid, most people are not intentional in ripping you off. If someone knows their vehicle they will most likely disclose anything major. It is up to you to find any discrepancies, whether there are 40k or 190k miles on it. If it is sold as is/no warranty you are at the mercy of your discernment. Please if you don't know what your are looking for ask someone to go with you or drive it to a mechanic you trust and pay a few bucks. It's worth it in the long run. Please don't buy from those shady little car dealers, you know the ones that have all the sporty cars and trucks and finance military "no money down." You will more than likely get a better deal and product buying from a private party seller.
So get out there and make the best of it and leave the impulses at home! Don't take as long as me though, it will just aggravate this joyful occasion of finding that perfect new ride!
Thursday, February 9, 2012
American Made...
I know this is a touchy or at least a very opinionated topic. Most likely if you are reading this you live in America and everybody knows about the controversy of owing our economic soul to China. There are very few things made in America or where the profits go to Americans. So your Toyota pickup is made in Alabama, the plant employees and dealers profit but bottom line your money is going to buy some Japanese CEO a new private jet. So what do I think we should do?
I try and by American when at all possible but bottom line is the all mighty dollar. Most people know that a big reason American goods are sometimes more pricey is the laborer that you pay for but American cars are generally less expensive. I do feel that one of the most expensive purchases you will make in your life should be as home grown as possible. I have only owned one foreign vehicle, while living in the US, and one semi-foreign which is a re badged Nissan to Mercury.
This isn't to say I don't enjoy or appreciate the "other" autos but why not give as much back to our country? I know there are CEO's for the big 3 that are abusing the money they make and taking government bail outs. Not to mention closing plants and taking there fat pensions but don't think this isn't going on in other countries. Here are a couple more reasons for my redarick.
From 1973 to about the 1990's America was at it's worst in automobile power and most of all reliability. The gas and emission crunch is to thank for that. The past several years has been a high point for the home grown autos but the stigma of "I had this Ford and it broke down a lot and I'll never buy American again", is still on the brain. This is also passed down generations. Well I beg you give America another chance. They are more than able to keep pace with their foreign competitors in performance and reliability. Usually you will pay less for the US equivalent ride and if there are repairs to be made, parts and labor usually run a lot lower.
From my experience if you perform regular maintenance on your car it will last. If you wait till something breaks you have probably worn another component out which will fail soon after. I have seen Jeep pickups with over 200k miles from the 80's that have not had major repairs. I lived in Germany for over 3 years and let me drop some knowledge on y'all, there are junk yards full of BMW's and Benz. The cars that are supposedly built for the autobahn were broke down on the side of it. The Japanese have had a ton of problems too, like the Toyota recall a few years ago.
So if you are going off of the stigma or what your parents say about American brand, form your own educated opinion, compare and drive. Give America another chance. I have done a lot of shopping around for cars lately and when the other guys start making a comparable auto for less I will consider it because I do have to look out for my wallet, I have kids to put through college.
I am proud to be American and I prefer the style of our automobiles. Everyone loved American cars before 1973 even the foreigners, so hopefully America will regain it's confidence.
I try and by American when at all possible but bottom line is the all mighty dollar. Most people know that a big reason American goods are sometimes more pricey is the laborer that you pay for but American cars are generally less expensive. I do feel that one of the most expensive purchases you will make in your life should be as home grown as possible. I have only owned one foreign vehicle, while living in the US, and one semi-foreign which is a re badged Nissan to Mercury.
This isn't to say I don't enjoy or appreciate the "other" autos but why not give as much back to our country? I know there are CEO's for the big 3 that are abusing the money they make and taking government bail outs. Not to mention closing plants and taking there fat pensions but don't think this isn't going on in other countries. Here are a couple more reasons for my redarick.
From 1973 to about the 1990's America was at it's worst in automobile power and most of all reliability. The gas and emission crunch is to thank for that. The past several years has been a high point for the home grown autos but the stigma of "I had this Ford and it broke down a lot and I'll never buy American again", is still on the brain. This is also passed down generations. Well I beg you give America another chance. They are more than able to keep pace with their foreign competitors in performance and reliability. Usually you will pay less for the US equivalent ride and if there are repairs to be made, parts and labor usually run a lot lower.
From my experience if you perform regular maintenance on your car it will last. If you wait till something breaks you have probably worn another component out which will fail soon after. I have seen Jeep pickups with over 200k miles from the 80's that have not had major repairs. I lived in Germany for over 3 years and let me drop some knowledge on y'all, there are junk yards full of BMW's and Benz. The cars that are supposedly built for the autobahn were broke down on the side of it. The Japanese have had a ton of problems too, like the Toyota recall a few years ago.
So if you are going off of the stigma or what your parents say about American brand, form your own educated opinion, compare and drive. Give America another chance. I have done a lot of shopping around for cars lately and when the other guys start making a comparable auto for less I will consider it because I do have to look out for my wallet, I have kids to put through college.
I am proud to be American and I prefer the style of our automobiles. Everyone loved American cars before 1973 even the foreigners, so hopefully America will regain it's confidence.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Songs to Drive by
So what is it about that certain song that makes you want to lean on that go pedal a little more? The right song can take you back to that summer cruise time with the windows down and the radio up. I like music as much as I like cars. I feel that they have been an inspiration to each other. They put radios in cars for a reason! Bands have written music about autos and driving for years. Some better than others but covering all genres of music. From British invaders to 80's rockers to Ridin Dirty. The love affair with the automobile spans all people. Well, I made a list. The songs on my list are what drive me to lay some rubber down or just ride slow and loud. Sometimes I feel I am too old for this type of behavior but who gives a crap. I am sure the guy in his 7 series beemer is mocking me as I try and flaunt my old faded paint, hole in the muffler, no heat having mustang but I roll loud and proud! So here is the list. I hope y'all will let me know what songs make you put your phone down and really drive.
No particular order because it depends on my mood and what I am driving as to what I want to here.
Sweet Emotion (Aerosmith) This song has the cruzin part and the get up and go!
Running Down A Dream (Tom Petty) Open interstate with miles to go.
Mean Street (Van Halen) This makes me want to burn the fricking tires off my car!! Try it!
Appetite For Destruction (G&R) YES THE WHOLE DANG ALBUM!!!
Man In The Box (Alice N Chains) Good twisty road song.
Run To The Hills (Iron Maiden) Bass line that never slows down. Beat that steering wheel up!
Legs (ZZ Top) The band of car enthusiast, need I say more?
Dirt Road Anthem (Jason Aldean) I like this for those slower country drives and in a 4X4.
Back Road (Rodney Atkins) It really does make me want to take a back road, which I recommend.
International Harvester (Craig Morgan) Suck it city boys!
Interstate Love Song (STP) Another long drive song.
Train Train (Blackfoot) You will try and race everyone while this is on, well I do.
Long Tall Sally (Little Richard) Get those pipes rumbling!
Call Me The Breeze (Lynyrd Skynyrd) I am out of here! Good get away song, if you need one.
Black Betty (Ram Jam) Zippy!
Low Rider (War) Cruise, you wont go the speed limit.
Ramble On (Led Zeppelin) Again, I gots to go!
No Particular Place To Go (Chuck Berry) Let roll and get some shakes!
Paranoid (Black Sabbath) You know, too many songs like this and you'll be buying new tires.
Bohemian Rhapsody (Queen) Bang your head and sing along. Good stop light singalong!
I could keep going, there are so many great songs that are about driving or make us want to. So...the weekend is coming and summer will be here before you know it. I recommend driving for pleasure once in a while. This will make you appreciate the luxury almost all of us enjoy as Americans. Crank it up but be careful, you don't want to involuntarily contribute to the police retirement fund.
No particular order because it depends on my mood and what I am driving as to what I want to here.
Sweet Emotion (Aerosmith) This song has the cruzin part and the get up and go!
Running Down A Dream (Tom Petty) Open interstate with miles to go.
Mean Street (Van Halen) This makes me want to burn the fricking tires off my car!! Try it!
Appetite For Destruction (G&R) YES THE WHOLE DANG ALBUM!!!
Man In The Box (Alice N Chains) Good twisty road song.
Run To The Hills (Iron Maiden) Bass line that never slows down. Beat that steering wheel up!
Legs (ZZ Top) The band of car enthusiast, need I say more?
Dirt Road Anthem (Jason Aldean) I like this for those slower country drives and in a 4X4.
Back Road (Rodney Atkins) It really does make me want to take a back road, which I recommend.
International Harvester (Craig Morgan) Suck it city boys!
Interstate Love Song (STP) Another long drive song.
Train Train (Blackfoot) You will try and race everyone while this is on, well I do.
Long Tall Sally (Little Richard) Get those pipes rumbling!
Call Me The Breeze (Lynyrd Skynyrd) I am out of here! Good get away song, if you need one.
Black Betty (Ram Jam) Zippy!
Low Rider (War) Cruise, you wont go the speed limit.
Ramble On (Led Zeppelin) Again, I gots to go!
No Particular Place To Go (Chuck Berry) Let roll and get some shakes!
Paranoid (Black Sabbath) You know, too many songs like this and you'll be buying new tires.
Bohemian Rhapsody (Queen) Bang your head and sing along. Good stop light singalong!
I could keep going, there are so many great songs that are about driving or make us want to. So...the weekend is coming and summer will be here before you know it. I recommend driving for pleasure once in a while. This will make you appreciate the luxury almost all of us enjoy as Americans. Crank it up but be careful, you don't want to involuntarily contribute to the police retirement fund.
Sunday, February 5, 2012
"I wanna go fast..."
I finally finished installing the fender well Cold Air Intake (CAI) on my Mustang. Now those that know me realize I am a cheapskate. This CAI that should have taken an hour to install lasted a few days while I hunted down hardware that it didn't come with and figured out the proper fitment because there were no directions. All those headaches were worth it, I only paid $50 for the whole setup with a filter. Average price being about $150 on up.
So should you modify your vehicle or keep it original (stock)? How much and what mods should you make? Does it depreciate your ride or make it less reliable? Well that is a matter of opinion and since it's my blog you are gonna get mine. I like a fairly stock looking ride, tastefully modified for improved performance, and reliability.
With restoration of vehicles the end result is what will determine the amount, if any, of modification. Generally speaking an antique restored to absolute original specifications (specs) fetches the most money but may not perform as well. We have come a long way in technology in the aftermarket world. Most people haven't rode in a 50's car with Bias ply tires, 3 on the tree, drum brakes without ABS, and heaven forbid NO traction control and pretty much no safety features. This can lead to an exciting and nostalgic ride. For some it brings back the exact spot they were 50 years ago and for others an experience of what it must have been like.
I am restoring my ride while also modifying it. I have chosen inconspicuous parts, similar shape and finish as the original. Many aftermarket parts are made sturdier and the performance benefits are much better. Many times these mod parts can make your ride more reliable and even improve mileage. For instance my CAI allows more cool air into the motor more easily. Being less restrictive has improved my fuel mileage. Opening up the exhaust a bit will increase power and mileage as well. It's like taking your jeans off after Thanksgiving dinner to put on sweats, less restrictive. The more air in the fuel mixture the better. So forced induction, superchargers and turbo as well as nitrous, will get you more air in the combustion chamber and BOOM more power.
There is always an extreme side to anything. If you put an 800 CFM, 4 barrel carb on a slightly modified car you will not only suck gas down like me with a shake from Sonic, but it will run like crap. There is always a balance to everything. Now if you are pushing 800 horse power then you will need that much fuel in the mix. So it all depends on what you want in a vehicle. Do you want a nostalgic cruiser that you go get shakes with on perfect days? A tire smoking straight line beast? A street light sleeper?
As far as depreciation goes, yes, your brand spankin new car that is under warranty will depreciate if you add performance mods. I am not sure if it is the connotation that it was beat on or the fact that you never know who did the mods and if it was done right. They sell factory modded vehicles with a warranty but you will pay for it. There are whole companies that build existing auto platforms up and you pay the premium at the dealer such as Saleen, Calloway, and Roush. Just know that for the most part, unless you build a race car, you will not get the money you paid for the mods out of the sale price of the vehicle. If your tires are awesome and cost $300 each you usually will not get $1200 on top of what the car is worth. You will however be able to say it has new tires and get the price of the condition of the vehicle, the better shape its in increases the value.
I like performance and I like to make my vehicle a little different, custom. I enjoy driving and build with the idea of how I want my ride to perform. Faster, safer, and more reliable. The customization of vehicles started a whole new culture that caught on fire after WWII. They even let Hot Rods in the Concourse, now that's cool!
Built not bought! get out there and have some headaches and hopefully fun!
So should you modify your vehicle or keep it original (stock)? How much and what mods should you make? Does it depreciate your ride or make it less reliable? Well that is a matter of opinion and since it's my blog you are gonna get mine. I like a fairly stock looking ride, tastefully modified for improved performance, and reliability.
With restoration of vehicles the end result is what will determine the amount, if any, of modification. Generally speaking an antique restored to absolute original specifications (specs) fetches the most money but may not perform as well. We have come a long way in technology in the aftermarket world. Most people haven't rode in a 50's car with Bias ply tires, 3 on the tree, drum brakes without ABS, and heaven forbid NO traction control and pretty much no safety features. This can lead to an exciting and nostalgic ride. For some it brings back the exact spot they were 50 years ago and for others an experience of what it must have been like.
I am restoring my ride while also modifying it. I have chosen inconspicuous parts, similar shape and finish as the original. Many aftermarket parts are made sturdier and the performance benefits are much better. Many times these mod parts can make your ride more reliable and even improve mileage. For instance my CAI allows more cool air into the motor more easily. Being less restrictive has improved my fuel mileage. Opening up the exhaust a bit will increase power and mileage as well. It's like taking your jeans off after Thanksgiving dinner to put on sweats, less restrictive. The more air in the fuel mixture the better. So forced induction, superchargers and turbo as well as nitrous, will get you more air in the combustion chamber and BOOM more power.
There is always an extreme side to anything. If you put an 800 CFM, 4 barrel carb on a slightly modified car you will not only suck gas down like me with a shake from Sonic, but it will run like crap. There is always a balance to everything. Now if you are pushing 800 horse power then you will need that much fuel in the mix. So it all depends on what you want in a vehicle. Do you want a nostalgic cruiser that you go get shakes with on perfect days? A tire smoking straight line beast? A street light sleeper?
As far as depreciation goes, yes, your brand spankin new car that is under warranty will depreciate if you add performance mods. I am not sure if it is the connotation that it was beat on or the fact that you never know who did the mods and if it was done right. They sell factory modded vehicles with a warranty but you will pay for it. There are whole companies that build existing auto platforms up and you pay the premium at the dealer such as Saleen, Calloway, and Roush. Just know that for the most part, unless you build a race car, you will not get the money you paid for the mods out of the sale price of the vehicle. If your tires are awesome and cost $300 each you usually will not get $1200 on top of what the car is worth. You will however be able to say it has new tires and get the price of the condition of the vehicle, the better shape its in increases the value.
I like performance and I like to make my vehicle a little different, custom. I enjoy driving and build with the idea of how I want my ride to perform. Faster, safer, and more reliable. The customization of vehicles started a whole new culture that caught on fire after WWII. They even let Hot Rods in the Concourse, now that's cool!
Built not bought! get out there and have some headaches and hopefully fun!
Friday, February 3, 2012
Classic, Antique, or otherwise...
I was driving my classic today wishing it was an antique so I could get a break on a few things. I have 4 more years until I can register my Mustang as an antique. This enables benefits such as NO MORE INSPECTIONS!!! Cut rate, cool looking tags, and lower insurance. Depending on how old you are and your taste, what you consider classic (20 years) or antique (25 years) will vary. I would think most people enjoy the 60-72 era American muscle made popular by reality shows and cool guy movies. Those cars are way beyond antique but when someone mentions a classic car the first thing that might pop into ones head... a 57 Chevy, 69 Camaro SS, etc. Probably not the 87 Honda Accord EX but by definition it is an antique vehicle and can be registered as such.
So is a Classic or Antique really age, popularity, performance, all of the above? This is left up to opinion. I feel that if your car is 25 then you should be able to register it as an antique. Please don't let not needing an inspection let your ride become a death trap. Just know that if your car wasn't desirable when it was new it probably will not be when it's a classic but to each their own. I am all about preserving autos no matter what they are. Look at all the Corvair clubs. Those cars were like the Chevy Cavalier of the 60's but now pretty popular. Never thought I would see so many 85 Caprice Classics, Dirty South style!
You can usually check the aftermarket for what is going to be considered by the mainstream as classic. Who wants to be mainstream? If you have the budget and the skills pick something cool but obscure and it could be a better investment. That's right, I said it. Your ride can be an investment especially when we are talking about an antique. Just do some market research before you go and dump a few grand into a car you can't sell for $2500.
So what do you think is classic? Gull Wing Mercedes, 64 1/2 Mustang, 1987 Buick GNX? They all are to somebody. It's all about supply and demand and what someone is willing to pay for it. If you can't find but a hundred 1985 Honda Accords on the market, if someone wants to buy it then I guess it's worth something. No matter what you drive, as long as you enjoy it, who cares! Have fun and preserve those old rides. You might be rollin in a future Barrett Jackson top seller!
Let me know what you consider a classic ride.
So is a Classic or Antique really age, popularity, performance, all of the above? This is left up to opinion. I feel that if your car is 25 then you should be able to register it as an antique. Please don't let not needing an inspection let your ride become a death trap. Just know that if your car wasn't desirable when it was new it probably will not be when it's a classic but to each their own. I am all about preserving autos no matter what they are. Look at all the Corvair clubs. Those cars were like the Chevy Cavalier of the 60's but now pretty popular. Never thought I would see so many 85 Caprice Classics, Dirty South style!
You can usually check the aftermarket for what is going to be considered by the mainstream as classic. Who wants to be mainstream? If you have the budget and the skills pick something cool but obscure and it could be a better investment. That's right, I said it. Your ride can be an investment especially when we are talking about an antique. Just do some market research before you go and dump a few grand into a car you can't sell for $2500.
So what do you think is classic? Gull Wing Mercedes, 64 1/2 Mustang, 1987 Buick GNX? They all are to somebody. It's all about supply and demand and what someone is willing to pay for it. If you can't find but a hundred 1985 Honda Accords on the market, if someone wants to buy it then I guess it's worth something. No matter what you drive, as long as you enjoy it, who cares! Have fun and preserve those old rides. You might be rollin in a future Barrett Jackson top seller!
Let me know what you consider a classic ride.
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Green or Not?
Back home now and I have been contemplating this. I spend a decent amount of time driving and I enjoy observing the different types of vehicles zooming around me. I guess one of the biggest things going now is the Green automobile.
What makes a car green? Fewer emissions, improved fuel mileage, or both? I see the proud people of the world feeling good about themselves while driving their Green autos saving the ice caps and more importantly cute baby seals. Well I have a thought on this Green car madness.
Lets start with the all mighty Hybrid which uses batteries and an engine. We'll start by realizing the price of a Hybrid verses a normal car. You can expect to pay several thousand more for that option but we are talking Earth Green not pocket green. Have you ever thought about where the batteries come from? How about Ni cad which are made from nickle mined somewhere with heavy equipment tearing up the Earth. Then the nickle is shipped to somewhere else on a huge diesel ship for manufacture and then shipped again to the auto plant on the same type of giant transport. I am not to sure of the life of one of these batteries but the average Hybrid has several and when it no longer maintains a charge you can start this whole process over again. Plus they only get about 40 to 50 MPG. That may sound good but the 3 cylinder Geo Metro got about the same and cost a lot less.
How about those new electric cars? I have yet to see a plug in car that cost less than $35k, that's a little steep for me. These cars require slight modification to the electrical system in your house to charge. The inconvenience of charge time and driving range is another drawback. The MPG still not immensely impressive because most still use a motor to charge the batteries to increase range and to not leave you stranded.
Diesel is more friendly when you are looking for increase in MPG but still maintain performance and a wide variety of vehicles. Too bad the US has not caught on to the diesel craze like Europe. Yes the emission footprint isn't much different than gas motors but the savings in fuel consumption is important for our countries economic future and import dependency.
I am not opposed to the for mentioned autos but I am not convinced this is the salvation of the world or it's the right path to go down. While "cash for clunkers" promoted complete fiscal irresponsibility by encouraging people who drove a payed off old car to go in debt for a new over priced Green car it also destroyed valuable parts that could have been reutilized or "recycled". You can get comparable mileage in many older vehicles with regular fuel motors. One of the best ways to reduce fuel consumption is to curtail your driving habits and keep up with the proper maintenance on your ride. Driving habits can turn a Prius into a gas hog. Try accelerating slower and doing the speed limit. Trust me it will make a difference. Good air and spark will keep your engine burning fuel most efficiently.
I guess my point is that Green cars of today pollute in their own special ways and if you average the car payment verse the fuel mileage you are probably better off keeping your old car or not paying the difference for the Hybrid.
What makes a car green? Fewer emissions, improved fuel mileage, or both? I see the proud people of the world feeling good about themselves while driving their Green autos saving the ice caps and more importantly cute baby seals. Well I have a thought on this Green car madness.
Lets start with the all mighty Hybrid which uses batteries and an engine. We'll start by realizing the price of a Hybrid verses a normal car. You can expect to pay several thousand more for that option but we are talking Earth Green not pocket green. Have you ever thought about where the batteries come from? How about Ni cad which are made from nickle mined somewhere with heavy equipment tearing up the Earth. Then the nickle is shipped to somewhere else on a huge diesel ship for manufacture and then shipped again to the auto plant on the same type of giant transport. I am not to sure of the life of one of these batteries but the average Hybrid has several and when it no longer maintains a charge you can start this whole process over again. Plus they only get about 40 to 50 MPG. That may sound good but the 3 cylinder Geo Metro got about the same and cost a lot less.
How about those new electric cars? I have yet to see a plug in car that cost less than $35k, that's a little steep for me. These cars require slight modification to the electrical system in your house to charge. The inconvenience of charge time and driving range is another drawback. The MPG still not immensely impressive because most still use a motor to charge the batteries to increase range and to not leave you stranded.
Diesel is more friendly when you are looking for increase in MPG but still maintain performance and a wide variety of vehicles. Too bad the US has not caught on to the diesel craze like Europe. Yes the emission footprint isn't much different than gas motors but the savings in fuel consumption is important for our countries economic future and import dependency.
I am not opposed to the for mentioned autos but I am not convinced this is the salvation of the world or it's the right path to go down. While "cash for clunkers" promoted complete fiscal irresponsibility by encouraging people who drove a payed off old car to go in debt for a new over priced Green car it also destroyed valuable parts that could have been reutilized or "recycled". You can get comparable mileage in many older vehicles with regular fuel motors. One of the best ways to reduce fuel consumption is to curtail your driving habits and keep up with the proper maintenance on your ride. Driving habits can turn a Prius into a gas hog. Try accelerating slower and doing the speed limit. Trust me it will make a difference. Good air and spark will keep your engine burning fuel most efficiently.
I guess my point is that Green cars of today pollute in their own special ways and if you average the car payment verse the fuel mileage you are probably better off keeping your old car or not paying the difference for the Hybrid.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Location, location...
I am still kickin it in the Dirty. I have been down here 5 days and have made a few observations. Why does the South like GM products so much? As soon as you hit Carolina all the trucks turn from Ford to Chevy. Of course you have the big balla Impala and the other GM big body cars on giant wheels. I know this trend has made its way to VA but its a whole new level down here. I saw an 80's model caprice, rolling on big enough wheels it had a lift kit on it, and the paint job had a giant fist full of dollas. Now that's classy y'all!
The funny thing is there is a huge hot rod culture where I am. So I guess you are at one extreme of the taste spectrum or the other. To each his own. At least they are saving all the old cars instead of crushing them.
So maybe Chevy holds a place in the heart of the South. Maybe the Ford plant being in my town saved us from the heartbeat. I don't have anything against Chevy, I am simply making an observation. You be the judge next time you are out driving around. If you want a mint full size Chevy car or short bed truck drive a few mile down and the prospects are endless.
Good luck finding a Dodge truck older than mid 90's anywhere but the Midwest. They made good farm and ranch vehicles so that makes since. Makes it hard to find a Ramcharger in VA. Let me put this in a little perspective. On Craigslist, between Hamptonroads, Richmond, and Raleigh there are about 10 Ramchargers. On the same list there are over a hundred Broncos and the same for Blazers. Now this all changed when Dodge restyled there line up in 94. That truck sold like hot cakes; most likely in forest green.
It is strange how a car can be so well received in one area or one people and not sell to another. I guess that's why people get paid to study demographics. So do I fall into a stereo type or demographic? I would like to think I don't but I am sure I do. I don't have a brand loyalty but I do gravitate to certain manufactures style and features. I also try and buy American.
So maybe I will broach the American vs the world car conversation later. Chevy is number one right now so maybe the dirty South knows whats up. You would not think that if you were down here.
I know I have been taking digs at the South but I consider myself a bit of a redneck and love the good things about the South. To bad a lot is over shadowed. We will have to work on that.
GOD BLESS DIXIE!
HELL YEAH!
Sunday, January 22, 2012
The List... and then some
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| 32 Deuce Coupe racing 55 Chevy in American Graffiti |
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| 73 Blazer pushed down the hill in Commando |
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| 72 Chevy Cheyenne in Dazed and Confused |
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| 68 Bronco in Dazed and Confused |
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| 92 Bronco driven by Anthony and Flea in The Chase |
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| Aston Martin DB5 pick a Bond movie |
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| 69 Charger... You know! |
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| 80 Jeep CJ7 Golden Eagle driven by Daisy Duke |
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| 81 GMC 3/4 Ton Sierra Grande The Fall Guy |
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| 83 Ramcharger SUPERCHARGED the way Chuck likes it! Lone Wolf McQuade |
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| 68 GMC Suburban for the other guys in Lone Wolf McQuade. NOT Supercharged! |
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| 84 Suburban with a snorkel and lava resistant tires. Dante's Peak |
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| 07 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, I owned one. Terminator Salvation |
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| 83 Mustang GT Convertible in Goonies |
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| 84 Jeep Cherokee in Goonies. Remember it one the beach race that had pretty much every awesome truck ever made. |
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| 98 Audi S8 in Ronin. |
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| 77 T/A... Bandit |
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| 83 GMC G-15 A-Team. This is for my father in-law. |
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| 59 Cadillac Ambulance... Echto 1 |
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| 50 Mercury in Cobra. Why was his gun so loud? |
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| 55 F-100 from Expendables. Stalone with 2 on the list. |
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| 85 Toyota SR5 Xtra Cab... Hello McFly! |
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| 63 Jeep Gladiator from Tremors. Tuff as nails and giant worms! |
Well this all I could come up with in a day per my bro's request. Hopefully you will enjoy this small list as a trip down memory lane. If you like American movies you are going to see a lot of autos in them. Whether they play a big part or are just in the back ground. The Automobile invokes things in us we can't always explain. Some of the cars on this list are NOT awesome but the persona given to them and what they gave to the film is what makes them stand out.
Let me know which ones you think I missed. I would love to add to this. Hear is an awesome website, www.IMCDB.org. This site has every car from everything on film.
Makes you want to run out and buy some DVD's don't it?
Saturday, January 21, 2012
The Ugly Hunt
Some of y'all know I have been looking for another SUV to replace the Jeep Wrangler I sold over the summer. Yes I have been looking all this time. Some times I think its me but then I snap back to the reality of people trying to get over on a poor, innocent guy like me. Well it ain't gonna happen! I hope that everyone looks at large purchases with this much discernment. Who wants to be stuck with a POS that was supposed to get them to work and be fun? I guess I will eventually root through the junk and find my flying unicorn; that means it's rare. I have looked at almost every generation of Wrangler, Bronco, Blazer, and even Ramcharger but still haven't found a worthy candidate. My wife thinks it's me sometimes and for a while I did too.
So I roll out to see this 98 Wrangler. The add says its in good shape, only surface rust, all maintenance done. We meet in a parking lot, some people feel weird you coming to their home with the advent of the Craigslist killer and all. At first the Jeep looks alright. I immediately smell the sweet aroma of coolant. This could be an easy fix but a vehicle with 27 easy fixes is a POS. Under closer examination I see multiple leaks from the whole drive train and cooling system. So I figure if the rust is minimal it might still be worth it. Keep in mind the asking price is $5500. So I move to the rust exam, this and the leak check are best done with a really bright light which I get from work. Under the carpet is where the mystery unfolds. The first indication is always sand in the carpet, this is almost impossible to clean completely out. That is why a lot of 4x4's will have the carpet removed and bed liner sprayed in, prevents and hides the rust easier. So I lift up the carpet in the trunk area and the floor boards, sho nuff, rust holes! That is the tell tale sign that this thing was dogged out on the beach and not well taken care of. After a quick test drive I feel it needs several new suspension components as well. So I walked from that one and many others just like it.
I tell you, it gets exhausting driving out to look at something that someone has assured you is the nicest that you will ever see and then... Well I guess they are trying to make a sale or maybe they don't realize how much of a piece their vehicle really is. I don't get mad at them even if it was a 2 hour drive with tolls. I just tell them what I found, they act shocked, and I leave. Like I said, God will put me in what I need but Moses was in the desert for 40 years, I hope it doesn't take that long.
So here is another thing I might get a few comments on, which 4X4 should I buy? I am interested to here y'all's opinions.
Stay tuned for a few more rants and random junk.
So I roll out to see this 98 Wrangler. The add says its in good shape, only surface rust, all maintenance done. We meet in a parking lot, some people feel weird you coming to their home with the advent of the Craigslist killer and all. At first the Jeep looks alright. I immediately smell the sweet aroma of coolant. This could be an easy fix but a vehicle with 27 easy fixes is a POS. Under closer examination I see multiple leaks from the whole drive train and cooling system. So I figure if the rust is minimal it might still be worth it. Keep in mind the asking price is $5500. So I move to the rust exam, this and the leak check are best done with a really bright light which I get from work. Under the carpet is where the mystery unfolds. The first indication is always sand in the carpet, this is almost impossible to clean completely out. That is why a lot of 4x4's will have the carpet removed and bed liner sprayed in, prevents and hides the rust easier. So I lift up the carpet in the trunk area and the floor boards, sho nuff, rust holes! That is the tell tale sign that this thing was dogged out on the beach and not well taken care of. After a quick test drive I feel it needs several new suspension components as well. So I walked from that one and many others just like it.
I tell you, it gets exhausting driving out to look at something that someone has assured you is the nicest that you will ever see and then... Well I guess they are trying to make a sale or maybe they don't realize how much of a piece their vehicle really is. I don't get mad at them even if it was a 2 hour drive with tolls. I just tell them what I found, they act shocked, and I leave. Like I said, God will put me in what I need but Moses was in the desert for 40 years, I hope it doesn't take that long.
So here is another thing I might get a few comments on, which 4X4 should I buy? I am interested to here y'all's opinions.
Stay tuned for a few more rants and random junk.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Sensations
Tonight I went on a date with my sweet little girl. It was a fun time at Christian chicken, but something was amiss. We took the standby vehicle. As we drove around town to our first stop, Toys R Us, it hit me when I turned in the parking lot and the van made the tell tale clicking noise of a bad CV axle. I wasn't embarrassed but it sounds terrible, is uncomfortable, and distracting. To top it off it's pretty dirty as well.
There is something to be said about driving enjoyment. You don't have to spend a butt ton of money to achieve that feeling. I love climbing into a freshly detailed car that smells of interior treatment and a quality wax. It really isn't as much the type of car but the condition. Yes, your enjoyment will increase if you are driving what you dream of but a lot of people are point A to B. I guarantee they enjoy seeing their floor boards again and being able to put their coffee down without having to move junk around. You have all seen, been in, or owned (not naming names but he's related to me) that vehicle that took 10 minutes to get ready for you to get in and your feet are still propped up on junk. Don't live in your car unless you are homeless or a truck driver! You will appreciate driving more, up the resale, and not litter when you open the door.
There are several car feelings you can experience. The I help the environment because I get 40+ MPG. Man this ride is smooth, I can't even tell its running. The I can get to the speed limit faster and louder than your green car! The work in progress but you see the potential in this soon to be classic. The most enjoyable, I have big enough tires to park on all ya'lls cars!
Whatever you have it will be far more enjoyable if it's clean and maintained. Who cares if it leaks a little oil, your gonna rebuild it some day but you can't enjoy it if you don't know if it's going to start when you get in on that 25 degree morning late for work.
So for a nominal price, a lot of test driving, research, and patience you can avoid despising the second biggest purchase in most of our lives. A little maintenance and not waiting till the part falls off will save you money, time, and heart ache down the road. I don't know why people neglect their cars and then get upset when it lets them down. Sounds like a metaphor but that's not my blog.
There is something to be said about driving enjoyment. You don't have to spend a butt ton of money to achieve that feeling. I love climbing into a freshly detailed car that smells of interior treatment and a quality wax. It really isn't as much the type of car but the condition. Yes, your enjoyment will increase if you are driving what you dream of but a lot of people are point A to B. I guarantee they enjoy seeing their floor boards again and being able to put their coffee down without having to move junk around. You have all seen, been in, or owned (not naming names but he's related to me) that vehicle that took 10 minutes to get ready for you to get in and your feet are still propped up on junk. Don't live in your car unless you are homeless or a truck driver! You will appreciate driving more, up the resale, and not litter when you open the door.
There are several car feelings you can experience. The I help the environment because I get 40+ MPG. Man this ride is smooth, I can't even tell its running. The I can get to the speed limit faster and louder than your green car! The work in progress but you see the potential in this soon to be classic. The most enjoyable, I have big enough tires to park on all ya'lls cars!
Whatever you have it will be far more enjoyable if it's clean and maintained. Who cares if it leaks a little oil, your gonna rebuild it some day but you can't enjoy it if you don't know if it's going to start when you get in on that 25 degree morning late for work.
So for a nominal price, a lot of test driving, research, and patience you can avoid despising the second biggest purchase in most of our lives. A little maintenance and not waiting till the part falls off will save you money, time, and heart ache down the road. I don't know why people neglect their cars and then get upset when it lets them down. Sounds like a metaphor but that's not my blog.
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
What's the difference?
There are so many different car and truck labels out there pretty much leaving the general population confused as to what they own or are purchasing. I don't want to steal Wiki's thunder but I will give ya'll a quick run down and food for thought.
I will not be a comment driven blog but some people and I have had an on going discussion on the subject... What is my car? Here are some terms I am sure you have heard; sports car, muscle car, performance car, gran touring (GT), pony, etc. Well whats in a name? Apparently not much anymore.
If you own a Mustang, what do you have. Well if it were the 60's you would have a pony car. In 2012 you have a sports car or a muscle car. Maybe a performance car? Is it still a muscle car if it has the 6 cylinder motor or a sports car because it has a back seat and an automatic transmission. Rear wheel drive, front engine, mid engine? Well lets just say, who made those rules anyway. If a car is fast and handles well it is a performance car. If you could use the car for a motorsport it is a sports car. If it has a lot of horse power its a muscle car. So most cars in these categories display all of these traits so call them what you will. Leave the pony car label to the 3 its intended. Careful in Europe throwing the GT word around, they like to fight over football (soccer) and touring cars.
This will probably come up again but I don't want to ramble. Personally I drive a foxbody coupe, performance, pony car with plenty of muscle, being modified to race in sports car club events. Is it confused or versatile? I say have fun with your car, legally, and don't waste to much time debating differences in opinion. If it makes you feel better, while driving a Neon with an intake and exhaust, to call it a sports car, just be ready to back it up. Just quit speeding thru the neighborhoods and parking lots, to prove how you can go over 25.
What is a roadster anyway?
Stay tuned, it could get worse.
I will not be a comment driven blog but some people and I have had an on going discussion on the subject... What is my car? Here are some terms I am sure you have heard; sports car, muscle car, performance car, gran touring (GT), pony, etc. Well whats in a name? Apparently not much anymore.
If you own a Mustang, what do you have. Well if it were the 60's you would have a pony car. In 2012 you have a sports car or a muscle car. Maybe a performance car? Is it still a muscle car if it has the 6 cylinder motor or a sports car because it has a back seat and an automatic transmission. Rear wheel drive, front engine, mid engine? Well lets just say, who made those rules anyway. If a car is fast and handles well it is a performance car. If you could use the car for a motorsport it is a sports car. If it has a lot of horse power its a muscle car. So most cars in these categories display all of these traits so call them what you will. Leave the pony car label to the 3 its intended. Careful in Europe throwing the GT word around, they like to fight over football (soccer) and touring cars.
This will probably come up again but I don't want to ramble. Personally I drive a foxbody coupe, performance, pony car with plenty of muscle, being modified to race in sports car club events. Is it confused or versatile? I say have fun with your car, legally, and don't waste to much time debating differences in opinion. If it makes you feel better, while driving a Neon with an intake and exhaust, to call it a sports car, just be ready to back it up. Just quit speeding thru the neighborhoods and parking lots, to prove how you can go over 25.
What is a roadster anyway?
Stay tuned, it could get worse.
Monday, January 16, 2012
Here Goes Nothing
I always thought Blogs and such were not my thing. Created for people that want there own reality show but haven't been discovered.
I enjoy talking and sometimes disputing about a multitude of subjects. Most of all the undisputed Man topic of old, the Automobile. This is not so easy for me to converse about in the company I keep these days I am more likely to be caught talking about point shoes or the latest on Book Face. Most people want a reliable, maybe fancy car that is under warranty and could care less about what makes it tick or how to get more out of it. There are still a lot of us Gear Heads out there but the mechanic is slowly being replaced by gadget guy. This is not necessarily a bad thing but sometimes I get the disinterested eye that leads me to wrap it up and move on to a more universal subject such as celebrities or the new iPhone.
This is a Blog to facilitate me running my mouth about what I enjoy, anything with wheels and a motor!
I enjoy talking and sometimes disputing about a multitude of subjects. Most of all the undisputed Man topic of old, the Automobile. This is not so easy for me to converse about in the company I keep these days I am more likely to be caught talking about point shoes or the latest on Book Face. Most people want a reliable, maybe fancy car that is under warranty and could care less about what makes it tick or how to get more out of it. There are still a lot of us Gear Heads out there but the mechanic is slowly being replaced by gadget guy. This is not necessarily a bad thing but sometimes I get the disinterested eye that leads me to wrap it up and move on to a more universal subject such as celebrities or the new iPhone.
This is a Blog to facilitate me running my mouth about what I enjoy, anything with wheels and a motor!
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